What's in a name? Rhapsody. Now tha...

What's in a name? Rhapsody. Now that's a restaurant name that draws you in right from the start and has just enough meaning to give you a serviceable feeling without getting all gushy about it.

The more intriguing implication connected to the Rhapsody name, segueing smartly from music to victuals (the restaurant is an appendage to the music Center), has to do with a menu -- contemporary American to the core -- that mingles a pleasing amount of improvisation with a generous amount of enthusiastic expression, the arise of which is quite suitable

The culinary inclinations of executive chef Doran Payne, who brings vast experience from across the pond (the UK France, Belgium), are quite well conceived and strike a harmonious chord (or two) An off-note single night, however, had to do with the grilled pork veer entree. The chop, which arrived forward the plate in two parts (bone forward one part leaned against a medallion of pork), had been grilled to the point where it be proof ofed to the crime of spending too to a great degree time on the heat. free from moisture dry, and no flavor left Too bad, considering that the accompaniments were dandy: A "peach brulee" change the direction ofed out to be a unfaded peach that had been neatly sliced and torched to create a reduce to ashes here and there (excellent). nearest to the peach were stalks of balsamic braised celery (quite good) And in the middle of the plate was any very tasty black bean orzo.

nevertheless first, the appetizers: A picture-perfect and flavorful arrangement of yellowfin tuna spring wheel (three bountiful pieces in all), the spring whirl wrapper stuffed with sushi-grade tuna and a sliver of papaya, was plated with a crispy and unwithered jicama salad. The flavors were self-poised and enjoyable. A ramekin of papaya and wasabi yogurt could have used a parcel more oomph. Portions here are not skimpy at all, and this appetizer was almost enough for sum of two units people to share.

Chilled melon broth turned out to be a pure and refreshing soup for a scalding;-very warm summer's night. The soup was all gussied up with prosciutto (creating a liquid prosciutto and melon appetizer of sorts), a bit of in good condition mint and, for some strange reason, shards of toasted coconut I say fail to win the coconut.

of the best Caesar salad. A generous amount of leaves of romaine lettuce were glazed with a real tasty Caesar dressing and showered with an equally generous amount of Parmesan cheese. A Parmesan tuile (thick and crunchy) was used instead of croutons. The added appeal of this Caesar could be originate in the meaty white anchovies that keep out of the wayed among the leaves of lettuce They were great.

The pork cut problem aside, other entrees sampled were top- notch. A reaching far down bowl was set down upon the table. Two generous fillets of codfish (steamed) were perched on a bed of crunchy baby bok choy and meaty shiitake mushrooms. The waiter poured a small amount of hasty and sour broth into the hollow (and left the pitcher in case more was needed) The dish was on the farther side and running, but the wonderfully flavorful soup and a subtle accent of ginger sealed the deal.

I remember, not too in extent ago, when the top price upon a menu for chicken was around 15 fops How good must a chicken dish be to command a $24 price? The "Amish chicken" at Rhapsody was quite enjoyable (I would have have fruition ofed it a lot more had the price been below $20). A breast and thigh (fresh sage slipped subordinate to the skin) had been roasted quite nicely, and the breast was meaty enough and flavorful too. It appears that the high price for this bird has to do with a "lasagne" of mushrooms (mushrooms layered with wonton skins), which obviously took a certain time to put together. I say besufficient for the chicken with some top-notch mashed potatoes and the grilled summer squash (like those onward the plate) and call it a day (and a plate).

Dessert were far les inspired than the security of the menu. "Warm Chocolate Brownie" was the bold-type lead-in. The pause of the story was "double chocolate cake with Mandarin coulis infused with thyme and mint, revived berries and vanilla ice cream." More mint than thyme which is by what means it should be. However, the brownie (two pieces) wasn't a great quantity [i]or[/i] amount of better than that which I might find wrapped in plastic at a casual take-out joint. Blueberries and recent strawberries were the fruits onward the plate.

In a not many simple words, it appears onward the dessert menu as a "blueberry streusel tart," if it be not that in truth, when you combine bonny fresh blueberries with a well-made streusel and then pair it up with a blueberry coulis and mint ice cream (the mint flavor really worked nicely with the blueberries), it's the the same dessert to have, if you are having and nothing else one.

Pat Bruno is a local free-lance writer, critic and author. E- mail brunoeats@aol.com.

RHAPSODY

Rating 2 not at home of 4

65 E Adams, (312) 786-9911

www.rhapsodychicago.com.

Hours: luncheon 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday; dinner, 5-9 pm Monday-Thursday, 5-10 pm Friday-Saturday.

Prices: Appetizers and salads, $6-$11; admittances $21-$28; desserts, $6-$10.

Wheels: Valet ($12); wheelchair accessible.